Pacing furnishes a convenient means of obtaining approximate distances which is quite useful in forest surveying. It can be used to obtain a rough check on more accurate measurements made with a tape. For the timber cruiser pacing is indispensable.

1. Be systematic. Because the method is crude, it should not be rendered valueless by careless recording of paces, ignoring changes of slope and cover, or by failing to check paced measurements against measured distances at every opportunity.

2. On level ground adopt a pace that can be held all day. This should be your NATURAL STRIDE. Do not try to take an even three-foot step. Some people use a single-step pace instead of the two-step pace. On flat open ground pace repeatedly over a measured distance until an accuracy of 1 to 100 can be obtained.

3. Pacing in mountainous brushy terrain is not the same as pacing on flat open ground. It is not often that a normal step can be taken in the woods. Thus, one must use other procedures to help, such as estimating by eye the number of paces ahead to some recognizable point. A stick can promote more accurate pacing in brush or on steep slopes.

4. It is suggested that pacing results be regularly recorded and checked against known distances under various conditions. If possible, a pacer should check his pace every day and preferably both morning and afternoon because of fluctuation as the day wears on.

5. A pace is a measurement of horizontal distance. Regardless of the slope, it is always in terms of horizontal distances.

1. Make a "Pacing Table" in your field book for O, 10, 2O, 30, 40 and 50 percent slopes. See example notes attached to this sheet.

2. Determine the number of paces per l0O feet on courses that you have measured. Take an average of five trials over each course and enter your results in "Personal Pacing Table".