The afternoon was spent in a very different manner. The family, whose
guests we were, possessed a gay and graceful hospitality that gave zest to
each moment. They possessed that rare politeness which, while fertile in
pleasant expedients to vary the enjoyment of a friend, leaves him
perfectly free the moment he wishes to be so. With such hosts, pleasure
may be combined with repose. They lived on the bank opposite the town,
and, as their house was full, we slept in the town, and passed three days
with them, passing to and fro morning and evening in their boats. (To one
of these, called the Fairy, in which a sweet little daughter of the house
moved
about lighter than any Scotch Ellen ever sung, I should indite a poem,
if I had not been guilty of rhyme on the very last page.) At morning this
was very pleasant; at evening, I confess I was generally too tired with
the excitements of the day to think it so.
Their housea double log cabinwas, to my eye, the model of a
Western villa. Nature had laid out before it grounds which could not be
improved. Within, female taste had veiled every rudenessavailed
itself of every sylvan grace.
In this charming abode what laughter, what sweet thoughts, what
pleasing fancies, did we not enjoy! May such never desert those who reared
it and made us so kindly welcome to all its pleasures!
Fragments of city life were dexterously crumbled into the dish prepared
for general entertainment. Ice creams followed the dinner drawn by the
gentlemen from the river, and music and fireworks wound up the evening of
days spent on the Eagle's Nest. Now they had prepared a little fleet to
pass over to the Fourth of July celebration, which some queer drumming and
fifing, from the opposite bank, had announced to be "on hand."
We found the free and independent citizens there collected beneath the
trees, among whom many a round Irish visage dimpled at the usual puffs of
Ameriky. The orator was a New Englander, and the speech smacked loudly of
Boston, but was received with much applause, and followed by a plentiful
dinner, provided by and for the Sovereign People, to which Hail Columbia
served as grace.
LOG CABIN
AT ROCK RIVER
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Returning, the gay flotilla hailed the little flag which the children
had raised from a log-cabin, prettier than any president ever saw, and
drank the health of their country and all mankind, with a clear
conscience.
Dance and song wound up the day. I know not when the mere local
habitation has seemed to me to afford so fair a chance of happiness as
this. To a person of unspoiled tastes, the beauty alone would afford
stimulus enough. But with it would be naturally associated all kinds of
wild sports, experiments, and the studies of natural history. In these
regards, the poet, the sportsman, the naturalist, would alike rejoice in
this wide range of untouched loveliness.
Then, with a very little money, a ducal estate may be purchased, and by
a very little more, and moderate labor, a family be maintained upon it
with raiment, food and shelter. The luxurious and minute comforts of a
city life are not yet to be had without effort disproportionate to their
value. But, where there is so great a counterpoise, cannot these be given
up once for all? If the houses are imperfectly built, they can afford
immense fires and plenty of covering; if they are small, who
cares?with such fields to roam in. In winter, it may be borne; in
summer, is of no consequence. With plenty of fish, and game, and wheat,
can they not dispense with a baker to bring "muffins hot" every morning to
the door for their breakfast?
Here a man need not take a small slice from the landscape, and fence it
in from the obtrusions of an uncongenial neighbor, and there cut down his
fancies
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to miniature improvements which a chicken could run over in ten
minutes. He may have water and wood and land enough, to dread no
incursions on his prospect from some chance Vandal that may enter his
neighborhood. He need not painfully economise and manage how he may use it
all; he can afford to leave some of it wild, and to carry out his own
plans without obliterating those of nature.
Here, whole families might live together; if they would. The sons might
return from their pilgrimages to settle near the parent hearth; the
daughters might find room near their mother. Those painful separations,
which already desecrate and desolate the Atlantic coast, are not enforced
here by the stern need of seeking bread; and where they are voluntary, it
is no matter. To me, too, used to the feelings which haunt a society of
struggling men, it was delightful to look upon a scene where nature still
wore her motherly smile and seemed to promise room not only for those
favored or cursed with the qualities best adapting for the strifes of
competition, but for the delicate, the thoughtful, even the indolent or
eccentric. She did not say, Fight or starve; nor even, Work or cease to
exist; but, merely showing that the apple was a finer fruit than the wild
crab, gave both room to grow in the garden.
A pleasant society is formed of the families Who live along the banks
of this stream upon farms. They are from various parts of the world, and
have much to communicate to one another. Many have cultivated minds and
refined manners, all a varied experience, while they have in common the
interests
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of a new country and a new life. They must traverse some space to get
at one another, but the journey is through scenes that make it a separate
pleasure. They must bear inconveniences to stay in one another's houses;
but these, to the well-disposed, are only a source of amusement and
adventure.
The great drawback upon the lives of these settlers, at present, is the
unfitness of the women for their new lot. It has generally been the choice
of the men, and the women follow, as women will, doing their best for
affection's sake, but too often in heart-sickness and weariness. Beside it
frequently not being a choice or conviction of their own minds that it is
best to be here, their part is the hardest, and they are least fitted for
it. The men can find assistance in field labor, and recreation with the
gun and fishing-rod. Their bodily strength is greater, and enables them to
bear and enjoy both these forms of life.
The women can rarely find any aid in domestic labor. All its various
and careful tasks must often be performed, sick or well, by the mother and
daughters, to whom a city education has imparted neither the strength nor
skill now demanded.
The wives of the poorer settlers, having more hard work to do than
before, very frequently become slatterns; but the ladies, accustomed to a
refined neatness, feel that they cannot degrade themselves by its absence,
and struggle under every disadvantage to keep up the necessary routine of
small arrangements.
With all these disadvantages for work, their resources for pleasure are
fewer. When they can leave
6
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the housework, they have not learnt to ride, to drive, to row, alone.
Their culture has too generally been that given to women to make them "the
ornaments of society." They can dance, but not draw; talk French, but know
nothing of the language of flowers; neither in childhood were allowed to
cultivate them, lest they should tan their complexions. Accustomed to the
pavement of Broadway, they dare not tread the wildwood paths for fear of
rattlesnakes!
Seeing much of this joylessness, and inaptitude, both of body and mind,
for a lot which would be full of blessings for those prepared for it, we
could not but look with deep interest on the little girls, and hope they
would grow up with the strength of body, dexterity, simple tastes, and
resources that would fit them to enjoy and refine the western farmer's
life.
But they have a great deal to war with in the habits of thought
acquired by their mothers from their own early life. Everywhere the fatal
spirit of imitation, of reference to European standards, penetrates, and
threatens to blight whatever of original growth might adorn the soil.
If the little girls grow up strong, resolute, able to exert their
faculties, their mothers mourn over their want of fashionable delicacy.
Are they gay, enterprising, ready to fly about in the various ways that
teach them so much, these ladies lament that "they cannot go to school,
where they might learn to be quiet." They lament the want of "education"
for their daughters, as if the thousand needs which call out their young
energies, and the language of nature around, yielded no education.
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Their grand ambition for their children, is to send them to school in
some eastern city, the measure most likely to make them useless and
unhappy at home. I earnestly hope that, ere long, the existence of good
schools near themselves, planned by persons of sufficient thought to meet
the wants of the place and time, instead of copying New York or Boston,
will correct this mania. Instruction the children want to enable them to
profit by the great natural advantages of their position; but methods
copied from the education of some English Lady Augusta, are as ill suited
to the daughter of an Illinois farmer, as satin shoes to climb the Indian
mounds. An elegance she would diffuse around her, if her mind were opened
to appreciate elegance; it might be of a kind new, original, enchanting,
as different from that of the city belle as that of the prairie
torch-flower from the shopworn article that touches tile check of that
lady within her bonnet.
To a girl really skilled to make home beautiful and comfortable, with
bodily strength to enjoy plenty of exercise, the woods, the streams, a few
studies, music, and the sincere and familiar intercourse, far more easily
to be met here than elsewhere, would afford happiness enough. Her eyes
would not grow dim, nor her cheeks sunken, in the absence of parties,
morning visits, and milliner's shops.
As to music, I wish I could see in such places the guitar rather than
the piano, and good vocal more than instrumental music.
The piano many carry with them, because it is the fashionable
instrument in the eastern cities. Even
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there, it is so merely from the habit of imitating Europe, for not One
in a thousand is willing to give the labor requisite to ensure any
valuable use of the instrument.
But, out here, where the ladies have so much less leisure, it is still
less desirable. Add to this, they never know how to tune their own
instruments, and as persons seldom visit them who can do so, these pianos
are constantly out of tune, and would spoil the ear of one who began by
having any.
The guitar, or some portable instrument which requires less practice,
and could be kept in tune by themselves, would be far more desirable for
most of these ladies. It would give all they want as a household companion
to fill up the gaps of life with a pleasant stimulus or solace, and be
sufficient accompaniment to the voice in social meetings.
Singing in parts is the most delightful family amusement, and those who
are constantly together can learn to sing in perfect accord. All the
practice it needs, after some good elementary instruction, is such as
meetings by summer twilight, and evening firelight naturally suggest. And,
as music is an universal language, we cannot but think a fine Italian duet
would be as much at home in the log cabin as one of Mrs. Gore's novels.
The sixth July we left this beautiful place. It was one of those rich
days of bright sunlight, varied by the purple shadows of large sweeping
clouds. Many a backward look we cast, and left the heart behind.
Our journey to-day was no less delightful than
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before, still all new, boundless, limitless. Kinmont says, that limits
are sacred; that the Greeks were in the right to worship a god of limits.
I say, that what is limitless is alone divine, that there was neither wall
nor road in Eden, that those who walked there lost and found their way
just as we did, and that all the gain from the Fall was that we had a
wagon to ride in. I do not think, either, that even the horses doubted
whether this last was any advantage.
Everywhere the rattlesnake-weed grows in profusion. The antidote
survives the bane. Soon the coarser plantain, the "white man's footstep,"
shall take its place.
We saw also the compass plant, and the western tea plant. Of some of
the brightest flowers an Indian girl afterwards told me the medicinal
virtues. I doubt not those students of the soil knew a use to every fair
emblem, on which we could only look to admire its hues and shape.
After noon we were ferried by a girl, (unfortunately not of the most
picturesque appearance) across the Kishwaukie, the most gracefull stream,
and on whose bosom rested many full-blown water-lilies, twice as large as
any of ours. I was told that, en revanche , they were scentless, but I
still regret that I could not get at one of them to try.
Query, did the lilied fragrance which, in the miraculous times,
accompanied visions of saints and angels, proceed from water or garden
lilies?
Kishwaukie is, according to tradition, the scene of a famous battle,
and its many grassy mounds
6*
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contain the bones of the valiant. On these waved thickly the mysterious
purple flower, of which I have spoken before. I think it springs from the
blood of the Indians, as the hyacinth did from that of Apollo's darling.
The ladies of our host's family at Oregon, when they first went there,
after all the pains and plagues of building and settling, found their
first pastime in opening one of these mounds, in which they found, I
think, three of the departed, seated in the Indian fashion.
One of these same ladies, as she was making bread one winter morning,
saw from the window a deer directly before the house. She ran out, with
her hands covered with dough, calling the others, and they caught him
bodily before he had time to escape.
Here (at Kishwaukie) we received a visit from a ragged and barefoot,
but
bright-eyed gentleman, who seemed to be the intellectual loafer, the
walking Will's coffeehouse of the place. He told us many charming snake
stories; among others, of himself having seen seventeen young ones reknter
the mother snake, on the intrusion of a visiter.
This night we reached Belvidere, a flourishing town in Boon county,
where was the tomb, now despoiled,
of Big Thunder. In this later day we felt happy to find a really good
hotel.
From this place, by two days of very leisurely and devious journeying,
we reached Chicago, and thus ended a journey, which one at least of the
party might have wished unending.
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I have not been particularly anxious to give the geography of the
scene, inasmuch as it seemed to me no route, nor series of stations, but a
garden interspersed with cottages, groves and flowery lawns, through which
a stately river ran. I had no guide-book, kept no diary, do not know how
many miles we travelled each day, nor how many in all. What I got from the
journey was the poetic impression of the country at large; it is all I
have aimed to communicate.
The narrative might have been made much more interesting, as life was
at the time, by many piquant anecdotes and tales drawn from private life.
But here courtesy restrains the pen, for I know those who received the
stranger with such frank kindness would feel ill requited by its becoming
the means of fixing many spy-glasses, even though the scrutiny might be
one of admiring interest, upon their private homes.
For many of these, too, I was indebted to a friend, whose property they
more lawfully are. This friend was one of those rare beings who are
equally at home in nature and with man. He knew a tale of all that ran and
swam, and flew, or only grew, possessing that extensive familiarity with
things which shows equal sweetness of sympathy and playful penetration.
Most refreshing to me was his unstudied lore, the unwritten poetry which
common life presents to a strong and gentle mind. It was a great contrast
to the subtleties of analysis, the philosophic strainings of which I had
seen too much. But I will not attempt to transplant it. May it profit
others as it did me in
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the region where it was born, where it belongs. The evening of our
return to Chicago the sunset was of a splendor and calmness beyond any we
saw at the West. The twilight that succeeded was equally beautiful; soft,
pathetic, but just so calm. When afterwards I learned this was the evening
of Allston's death, it seemed to me as if this glorious pageant was not
without connection with that event; at least, it inspired similar
emotions,a heavenly gate closing a path adorned with shows well
worthy Paradise.
Farewell, ye soft and sumptuous solitudes!
Ye fairy distances, ye lordly woods,
Haunted by paths like those that Poussin knew,
When after his all gazers eyes he drew;
I go, and if I never more may steep
An eager heart in your enchantments deep,
Yet ever to itself that heart may say,
Be not exacting; thou hast lived one day;
Hast looked on that which matches with thy mood,
Impassioned sweetness of full being's flood,
Where nothing checked the bold yet gentle wave,
Where nought repelled the lavish love that gave.
A tender blessing lingers o'er the scene,
Like some young mother's thought, fond, yet serene,
And through its life new-born our lives have been.
Once more farewell, a sad, a sweet farewell;
And, if I never must behold you more,
In other worlds I will not cease to tell
The rosary I here have numbered o'er;
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And bright-haired Hope will lend a gladdened ear,
And Love will free him from the grasp of Fear,
And Gorgon critics, while the tale they hear,
Shall dew their stony glances with a tear,
If I but catch one echo from your spell;
And so farewell, a grateful, sad farewell!