Nine days I passed alone at Mackinaw, except for occasional visits
from kind and agreeable residents at the fort, and Mr. and Mrs. A. Mr. A.,
long engaged in the fur-trade, is gratefully remembered by many
travellers. From Mrs. A., also, I received kind attentions, paid in the
vivacious and graceful manner of her nation.
The society at the boardinghouse entertained, being of a kind entirely
new to me. There were many traders from the remote stations, such as La
Pointe, Arbre Croche, men who had become half wild and wholly rude,
by living in the wild; but good-humored, observing, and with a store of
knowledge to impart, of the kind proper to their place.
There were two little girls here, that were pleasant companions for
me. One gay, frank, impetuous, but sweet and winning. She was an American,
fair, and with bright brown hair. The other, a little French Canadian,
used to join me in my walks, silently take my hand, and sit at my feet
when I stopped in beautiful
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places. She seemed to understand without a word; and I never shall
forget her little figure, with its light, but pensive motion, and her
delicate, grave features, with the pale, clear complexion and soft eye.
She was motherless, and much left alone by her father and brothers, who
were boatmen. The two little girls were as pretty representatives of
Allegro and Penseroso, as one would wish to see.
I had been wishing that a boat would come in to take me to the Sault
St. Marie, and several times started to the window at night in hopes that
the pant and dusky-red light crossing the waters belonged to such an one;
but they were always boats for Chicago or Buffalo, till, on the 28th of
August, Allegro, who shared my plans and wishes, rushed in to tell me that
the General Scott had come, and, in this little steamer, accordingly, I
set off the next morning.
I was the only lady, and attended in the cabin by a Dutch girl and an
Indian woman. They both spoke English fluently, and entertained me much by
accounts of their different experiences.
The Dutch girl told me of a dance among the common people at
Amsterdam, called the shepherd's dance. The two leaders are dressed as
shepherd and shepherdess; they invent to the music all kinds of movements,
descriptive of things that may happen in the field, and the rest were
obliged to follow. I have never heard of any dance which gave such free
play to the fancy as this. French dances merely describe the polite
movements of society; Spanish and Neapolitan, love; the beautiful
Mazurkas, &c., are warlike
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or expressive of wild scenery. But in this one is great room both for
fun and fancy.
The Indian was married, when young, by her parents, to a man she did
not love. He became dissipated, and did not maintain her. She left him.
taking with her their child; for whom and herself she earns a subsistence
by going as chambermaid in these boats. Now and then, she said, her
husband called on her, and asked if he might live with her again; but she
always answered, no. Here she was far freer than she would have been in
civilized life.
I was pleased by the nonchalance of this woman, and the perfectly
national manner she had preserved after so many years of contact with all
kinds of people. The two women, when I left the boat, made me presents of
Indian work, such as travellers value, and the manner of the two was
characteristic of their different nations. The Indian brought me hers,
when I was alone, looked bashfully down when she gave it, and made an
almost sentimental little speech. The Dutch girl brought hers in public,
and, bridling her short chin with a self-complacent air, observed she had
bought it for me. But the feeling of affectionate regard was the same in
the minds of both.
Island after island we passed, all fairly shaped and clustering
friendly, but with little variety of vegetation.
In the afternoon the weather became foggy, and we could not proceed
after dark. That was as dull an evening as ever fell.
The next morning the fog still lay heavy, but the captain took me out
in his boat on an exploring expedition, and we found the remains of
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the old English fort on Point St. Joseph's. All around was so wholly
unmarked by anything but stress of wind and weather, the shores of these
islands and their woods so like one another, wild and lonely, but nowhere
rich and majestic, that there was some charm in the remains of the garden,
the remains even of chimneys and a pier. They gave feature to the scene.
Here I gathered many flowers, but they were the rome as at Mackinaw.
The captain, though he had been on this trip hundreds of times, had
never Seen this spot, and never would, but for this fog, and his desire to
entertain me. He presented a striking instance how men, for the sake of
getting a living, forget to live. It is just the same in the most romantic
as the most dull and vulgar places. Men get the harness on so fast, that
they can never shake it off, unless they guard against this danger from
the very first. In Chicago, how many men, who never found time to see the
prairies or learn anything unconnected with the business of the day, or
about the country they were living in!
So this captain, a man of strong sense and good eyesight, rarely found
time to go off the-track or look about him on it. He lamented, too, that
there had been no call Which induced him to develop his powers of
expression, so that he might communicate what he had seen, for the
enjoyment or instruction of others. This is a common fault among the
active men, the truly living, who could tell what life is. It should not
be so. Literature should not be left to the mere literatieloquence
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to the mere orator. Every Cæsar should be able to write his own
commentary. We want a more equal, more thorough, more harmonious
development, and there is nothing to hinder from it the men of this
country, except their own supineness, or sordid views.
When the weather did clear, our course up the river was delightful.
Long stretched before us the island of St. Joseph's, with its fair woods
of sugar maple. A gentleman on board, who belongs to the Fort at the
Sault, said their pastime was to come in the season of making sugar, and
pass some time on this island,the days at work, and the evening in
dancing and other amusements.
I wished to extract here Henry's account of this, for it was just the
same sixty years ago as now, but have already occupied too much room with
extracts. Work of this kind done in the open air, where everything is
temporary, and every utensil prepared on the spot, gives life a truly
festive air. At such times, there is labor and no careenergy with
gaiety, gaiety of the heart.
I think with the same pleasure of the Italian vintage, the Scotch
harvest-home, with its evening dance in the barn, the Russian
cabbage-feast even, and our huskings and hop-gatheringsthe
hop-gatherings where the groups of men and girls are pulling down and
filling baskets with the gay festoons, present as graceful pictures as the
Italian vintage.
I should also like to insert Henry's descriptions of the method of
catching trout and white fish, the delicacies of this region, for the same
reason as I want
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his account of the Gens de Terre, the savages among savages, and his
tales, dramatic, if not true, of cannibalism.
I have no less grieved to omit Carver's account of the devotion of a
Winnebago prince at the Falls of St. Anthony, which he describes with a
simplicity and intelligence, that are very pleasing.
I take the more pleasure in both Carver and Henry's power of
appreciating what is good in the Indian character, that both had run the
greatest risk of losing their lives during their intercourse with the
Indians, and had seen them in their utmost exasperation, with all its
revolting circumstances.
I wish I had a thread long enough to string on it all these beads that
take my fancy; but, as I have not, I can only refer the reader to the
books themselves, which may be found in the library of Harvard College, if
not elsewhere.
How pleasant is the course along a new river, the sight of new shores;
like a life, would but life flow as fast, and upbear us with as full a
stream. I hoped we should come in sight of the rapids by daylight; but the
beautiful sunset was quite gone, and only a young moon trembling over the
scene, when we came within hearing of them.
I sat up long to hear them merely. It was a thoughtful hour. These two
days, the 29th and 80th August, are memorable in my life; the latter is
the birth-day of a near friend. I pass them alone, approaching Lake
Superior; but I shall not enter into that truly wild and free region;
shall not have the canoe voyage, whose daily adventure, with the
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camping out at night beneath the stars, would have given an interlude
of such value to my existence. I shall not see the Pictured Rocks, their
chapels and urns. It did not depend on me; it never has, whether such
things shall be done or not.
My friends! may they see, and do, and be more, especially those who
have before them a greater number of birthdays, and of a more healthy and
unfettered existence:
TO EDITH, ON HER BIRTHDAY.
If the same star our fates together bind,
Why are we thus divided, mind from mind?
If the same law one grief to both impart,
How could'st thou grieve a trusting mother's heart?
Our aspiration seeks a common aim,
Why were we tempered of such differing frame?
But 'tis too late to turn this wrong to right;
Too cold, too damp, too deep, has fallen the night.
And yet, the angel of my life replies,
Upon that night a Morning Star shall rise,
Fairer than that which ruled the temporal birth,
Undimmed by vapors of the dreamy earth;
It says, that, where a heart thy claim denies,
Genius shall read its secret ere it flies;
The earthly form may vanish from thy side,
Pure love will make thee still the spirit's bride.
And thou, ungentle, yet much loving child,
Whose heart still shows the "untamed haggard wild,"
A heart which justly makes the highest claim,
Too easily is checked by transient blame;
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Ere such an orb can ascertain its sphere,
The ordeal must be various and severe;
My prayers attend thee, though the feet may fly,
I hear thy music in the silent sky.
I should like, however, to hear some notes of earthly music to-night.
By the faint moonshine I can hardly see the banks; how they look I have no
guess, except that there are trees, and, now and then, a light lets me
know there are homes with their various interests. I should like to hear
some strains of the flute from beneath those trees, just to break the
sound of the rapids.
When no gentle eyebeam charms;
No fond hope the bosom warms;
Of thinking the lone mind is tired
Nought seems bright to be desired;
Music, be thy sails unfurled,
Bear me to thy better world;
O'er a cold and weltering sea,
Blow thy breezes warm and free;
By sad sighs they ne'er were chilled,
By sceptic spell were never stilled;
Take me to that far-offshore,
Where lovers meet to part no more;
There doubt, and fear and sin are o'er,
The star of love shall set no more.