The Real Jurassic Park: Geological Explorations in Southwest England
University of Washington, Tacoma
TESC 417: Summer 2006
The Real Jurassic Park: Geology field course along the south coast of England (TESC 417)
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Heidi Palermo

Field Geology

September 1, 2006

Final Paper

 

The Great Fire of London and the Reconstruction

 

            In the wee hours of Sunday morning September 2, 1666 a small fire broke out in a bakery while its owners and tenants were fast asleep. The bakery was located on Pudding Lane, adjacent to the London Bridge in the heart of London City. A strong Easterly wind carried the blaze down Thames Street, while at the same time it expanded in the North past Fenchurch Street and into Lothbury. “By the end of the fire some four-fifths of the City had been destroyed, approximately 13,200 houses, 87 churches and 50 Livery Halls over an area of 436 acres,” (angliacampus.com). Damage on this grand of a scale called for an entire rebuilding of London City, this time using brick and stone instead of wood and thatch. For this reason a very attractive stone was quarried off the Isle of Portland called the Portland limestone. The famous architect Christopher Wren used it to build many famous buildings and churches, many of which can still be seen in London today, the most famous being St. Paul’s Cathedral.

            At the time of the fire there was no organized form of firefighting in London. Accidental fires broke out all the time, and yet still nothing was done to develop an effective way of containing or putting out fires. So when the great fire started that September night, Londoners helplessly watched their houses and shops burn to ash. Men were seen carrying buckets of water from the Thames River and splashing it onto the blazing houses, but this was most certainly not effective in stopping the blitz. The most common way the locals tried to stop a fire was to tear down a house in the path of the fire in order to create a “fire break,” or a gap large enough that the fire could not leap across to the next house (channel4.com). Fire breaks were ordered by the government for the sake of the greater good, and so the expectation was that public funds would be used to rebuild those houses selected for demolition in the event of a fire. Unfortunately during the Fire of 1666, government officials were so concerned with the costs of rebuilding the houses ordered to be destroyed, that bureaucratic hesitation allowed the fire to escape out of control. By the time that fire breaks were eventually ordered, the remaining rubble could not be cleared out of the way in time and instead acted as a catalyst for the fire to leap onward to the next house.

            While red-tape administration played a role in increasing the devastation of the fire, the most injurious factor was that the majority of London houses and shops were constructed of wood and thatch, which are rapidly burning materials. Moreover, the houses were all lined up in a row, touching on each side, the way you would imagine a crowded residential street in San Fransico, California to look. The fire literally swallowed one house and moved on to its neighbor in no time. Additionally, warehouses along the Thames were “filled with food for the flames: hemp, oil, tallow, hay, timber, coal and spirits along with other combustibles,” (luminarium.com). Both of these factors contributed to the rapidity at which the fire blazed on, and made the task of stopping the fire a seemingly impossible one.

            Eventually though, the Eastward spread of the fire came to a stop in the area near Fleet Street when the Duke of York ordered the demolition of the Paper House with the purpose of creating a fire break (luminarium.com). Fortunately, the fire was naturally stopped from moving southward by the Thames River, and could not jump to Southwark over the London Bridge due to a large gap in the middle caused by a previous fire in 1633. The severity of both of those fires forced Londoners to realize that when rebuilding their beloved city this time around, they must find a safer, more resistant material to rebuild with. It was here that a great conversion was made to stone building, and the market for Portland limestone thrived.

            But before we explore the architectural impact that the Fire had on the City of London, it is also important to examine how the fire affected the people who lived in that area. Sometimes in history it is easy to become so removed by time and space that we tend to forget that real people and their lives were critically impacted by certain events. When those 13,200 houses burnt to the ground, the people that were living inside them had nowhere to go. Records indicate that somewhere around 200,000 people were left homeless by the fire. Families salvaged as many personal belongings as possible, and fled the path of the fire as quickly as they could. The wealthy inhabitants packed their belongings and actually fled the City to another one of their residences or distant family. Unfortunately for the middle class and poor, this was not an option. Not only did they have nowhere else to go, but they did not have the money to get there. Eventually most people dispersed amongst St. George’s fields, Moorfields, and Highgate, or made temporary housing out of tents and makeshift shacks. For the many middle class or lower class inhabitants of London it resulted in an immediate plunge into extreme poverty. The imminent need to rebuild the once prosperous and magnificent city and give people their livelihoods back was felt by all.

            While the fire caused immense destruction to the City of London and left hundreds of thousands of people displaced, two positive consequences arose from the burning down of four-fifths of the city proper. The first of these is the significant decline in the number of plague victims following the fire. The prior year, a plague epidemic started out in a suburb of London and quickly made its way into the city walls. It swept through the city, rapidly killing thousands of people within days of infection. The sick were locked, along with their families, into their own houses to die. The houses were even guarded by resident parish employees to make sure the sick did not try to escape. The crowdedness of London’s streets aided the disease’s contagiousness, and, despite people’s attempts to drive the disease away by sniffing herbs and drinking preventative potions, by the end of July over 1,000 Londoners were dying each week of the plague (channel4/plague.com).

            Although the people of 1666 could only speculate over the cause, transmission, and prevention of the plague, today we are able to carefully examine of all these components. With the scientific information available to us we now know that the plague is caused by a bacillus called Yersinia pestis, which is transmitted by the fleas (picture 1) of black rats (picture 2) and other small rodents. “The plague bacillus is extremely virulent. Laboratory mice die after being infected with just three bacilli-and fleas can disgorge up to 24,000 in one bite,” (channel4/plague.com).  The most common type of plague spreading around London in 1665 was the Bubonic plague.  Fleas infected with the bacilli would live on the backs of black rats who were prevalent within the city walls. When the rats would die, the fleas were forced to find new hosts in human beings. As soon as the flea bit a person’s skin, the bacilli attacked the lymphatic system, causing the lymph glands of the groin, armpits, and neck to become inflamed (channel4/plague). These large and painful swellings were known as ‘buboes,’ (picture 3) which is where the disease gets its name. There are also massive amounts of internal bleeding which leads to large bruising on the skin of a dark purple or black color (picture 4), hence the nickname ‘Black Death.’

            Without an awareness or a cure, the plague spread through London in 1665 faster than the fire did in 1666.  There was an exodus of the rich from London out into the more rural areas of England. “By June the roads were clogged with people desperate to escape London. The Lord Mayor responded by closing the gates to anyone who did not have a certificate of health,” (britianexpress.com). For the rich who could afford a doctor’s care, this was no problem. But for the rest of London’s poor this meant a forced enclosure into a disease-ravaged city with no chance of escape. “The poor were forbidden to leave London. Seen as carriers of the disease, they were turned back at the boundaries,” (channel4/plague.com). Forced away at the gates, they had no choice but to turn around and embrace sickness and death. As aforementioned, there was much speculation over how the disease was transmitted. “It was rumored that dogs and cats spread the disease, so the Lord Mayor ordered all the dogs and cats destroyed…The real effect of this was that there were fewer natural enemies of the rats who carried the plague fleas, so the germs spread more rapidly,” (britainexpress.com).  By mid-July the death rate rose to over 1,000 deaths per week and quickly multiplied to over 6,000 per week in August. Massive plague pits were dug to bury the dead in one large heap. Fortunately, as the weather turned colder throughout the winter the number of plague victims started to decline, and the once fleeing inhabitants returned home.

            Although the plague death rate was steadily declining by September 1666, the Fire of London actually helped to eliminate the disease by burning down many of the impoverished areas that the fleas still thrived in. “Indeed the fire probably had the effect of saving many thousands of lives. The flames destroyed vast areas of unsanitary housing, killing rats and purging the capital of infection. As a result, London was not revisited by plague in the post-fire years,” (channel4.com). So while the massive fire caused unimaginable destruction and even a few deaths (some sources quote six, others claim sixteen), some good did result from it. An inestimable amount of lives were indeed saved by the fire, although unknown to the potential victims at the time.

            The second positive opportunity that arose from the unexpected fire was the chance that presented itself to, in essence, rebuild London. The pre-fire city of London was a classic example of a medieval European city with its small, winding streets, inefficient and impractical design, and unregulated layout. A majority of the buildings and houses were constructed of wood and topped with a thatch roof, with the main exception being the towers of large cathedrals which were constructed of stone.  London, in fact, emerged as a hodge-podge of buildings thrown up with complete irregularity and unconformity. And once most of the city was torn down, the government and architectural ambassadors were thrilled at the opportunity to start all over and build the more efficient, aesthetically pleasing London they had envisioned.

            Several architects submitted plans for the rebuild to the King and his Commission. Christopher Wren (picture 5), the well-known mathematician specializing in geometric spaces, was commissioned along with five other people to oversee the task at hand. However, shortly thereafter it became apparent that the hope of doing a major remodel of the city’s layout was a dream that would never be fully realized. Local property owners were rightfully insistent upon retaining their lots in the exact size and place as before. “In a very careful democracy such as we had in England in 1666, it was out of the question to evict all the residents and replace them with these grand boulevards and monuments which did not leave much room for street widening and civic hall construction,” (Duin).  But efforts were made to regulate new construction and widen eligible streets. Overall, the city was rebuilt in a swift manner: “By 1671, 9,000 houses and public buildings had been completed,” (luminarium.com) this time out of the more favorable building material of stone.

            When Wren and his staff were searching for an aesthetically pleasing, structurally reliable building stone they found exactly what they were looking for in the limestone that lay in wait of being quarried off the side of the Isle of Portland in Dorset on the coast of southern England. This Portland limestone, as it came to be identified, was easily accessible from the side of the isle and made transporting the stone a relatively easy task. The quarrymen struck the stone out of its natural environment and dumped on to ships to be exported to the market capital where the stone soon became a popular commodity (Davies-Vollum). In addition to being easily accessible the stone was also easy to work with. The Portland limestone is classified as a ‘freestone,’ which means that due to its unique composition it can be cut in any direction without causing huge breaks in the rock, thus it can be ‘freely’ sculpted (Greengrove). “This feature [freestone], coupled with hardness, colour and durability, gives the limestone its quality as a building stone,” (www.es.ucl.ac.uk).

            The unique composition of the Portland stone can be attributed to the geologic environment in which it was deposited between 142 to 202 million years ago during a period known as the Late Jurassic. The Jurassic period was a warm marine environment marked by a constant cyclical sea level change (Davies-Vollum). This constant marine activity produced tiny balls of calcium carbonate along the shallow sea floor. As these balls, called ooids, moved around they collected additional particles and grew in size until they were deposited under sediment and fused to form a type of sedimentary rock known as an oolite (sculptureconversation.com). As the calcium carbonate is precipitated from the material over time it cements the rock together to form oolitic limestone. Because this limestone was formed at the ocean floor it contains very little fossil remains, which adds to its favorability as a building stone (Greengrove).

            One person who certainly appreciated the usefulness of the Portland stone was Christopher Wren. He had six million tons of the white Portland limestone shipped into London to rebuild the city (answers.com).  First came the rebuilding of peoples’ houses and then the widening of the streets, which left very limited space for Wren to construct grandiose monuments and churches the way the King would have fashioned. But given the constraints, Wren was still able to oversee the construction of fifty-one churches and cathedrals in post-fire London, the most famous being St. Paul’s Cathedral. Wren’s work is marveled for many reasons, but most often for his ability to take the irregular spaces of land given to him and produce a cathedral that, when viewed from the inside, looked perfectly rectangular and symmetrical. According to Lisa Jardine, professor of English and dean of the Faculty of Arts at Queen Mary and Westfield College, University of London, Wren was a ‘classicising’ architect given horribly odd shaped plots of land that a normal classicist would want nothing to do with. But the beauty of Wren’s work is that he accepted the circumstances given to him and managed to create some of the most beautiful churches in the world by geometrically analyzing the internal spaces and creating something of an optical illusion once the viewer was inside. Jardine testifies that most of Wren’s architectural blueprints look impossible on paper, but once seen in the 3-dimensional space it all makes sense.

            As aforementioned, Wren was a huge fan of the Portland Stone and used it in many of his buildings during the reconstruction. St. Paul’s Cathedral was originally built in 604 AD, but the version of the church standing when the fire hit in 1666 was actually the third cathedral on that site (stpauls.co.uk). It was severely damaged during the fire with only the stone towers remaining somewhat intact. It was in 1675 that Wren began the construction of what would become the fourth cathedral dedicated to St. Paul on that site (picture 8), and in this picture you can see the beautiful white Portland limestone that was used in abundance. It took thirty-five years to complete and lucky for Wren his privileged lifestyle brought him good health into his nineties which allowed him to witness the completion of all of his projects.  

            In addition to building St. Paul’s Cathedral, some of the other famous Wren masterpieces that incorporated the Portland stone include: St. Clement’s Danes, St. James, St. Mary Le Bow, St. Nicholas Cole Abbey, and St. Stephen’s Walbrook. Additionally, Wren worked with Robert Hooke to design what is know today in London as ‘The Monument,’ which at 202 feet is the largest freestanding stone column in the world. It was erected in 1677 exactly 202 from where the bakery stood in which the Great Fire started that windy September night (britainexpress.com). The Monument serves as a memorial to the loss of the fire and a dedication to the tremendous efforts of all who contributed to the reconstructing of London.

            Personally it has been an amazing journey to actually travel to the Isle of Portland and stand atop the mass of limestone. Being out on the Isle was not only a magnificent view, but also showed me firsthand just how accessible the limestone really was for quarrying. Then to be able to actually go to St. Paul’s Cathedral in London and see the perfectly chiseled limestone in such a famous work of architecture brought the experience full circle for me. Knowing about the history of the Great Fire and envisioning the London of 1666 grappling with the plague, the fire, and a war with the Dutch all at the same time makes me appreciate everything that I have seen in my travels even more. I feel truly privileged to have had the opportunity to go to all these important landmarks and become a part of history in the process.  

 

Appendix

Picture 1

Source: Source: http://www.insecta-inspecta.com/fleas/bdeath/

Picture 2

Source: http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/H/history/plague/plague.html

 

Picture 3

Source: http://www.insecta-inspecta.com/fleas/bdeath/

 

Picture 4

Source: http://www.insecta-inspecta.com/fleas/bdeath/

 

Picture 5

Source: http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/wren_christopher.shtml

 

Picture 6

Source: Heidi Palermo

 

Picture 7

Source: Heidi Palermo

 

Picture 8

Source: http://www.stpauls.co.uk

 

Picture 9

Source: http://www.londontown.com/LondonInformation/Business/The_Monument/2c17/

 

Works Cited

Buildings of London. Retreived August 31, 2006 from http://www.es.ucl.ac.uk/schools/Glossary/limestone.htm

Davies-Vollum, Sian. Class Lecture, University of Washington. July 25, 2006.

Department of Earth Sciences, University College London. Geology in the landscape and buildings of London. Retrieved August 30, 2006 from http://www.es.ucl.ac.uk/schools/Glossary/limestone.htm

Duin, Nancy (ed.) An Interview with Lisa Jardine. Retrieved August 27, 2006 from http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/H/history/i-m/jardine.html

Fire. Retrieved August 25, 2006 from http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/H/history/fire/story.html

Greengrove, Cheryl. Discussion, University of Washington. August 28, 2006.

Jokinen, Anniina. (2001). The Great Fire of London, 1666. Retrieved August 29, 2006 from Luminarium, http://www.luminarium.org/encyclopedia/greatfire.htm

Milne, John. About St. Paul’s. Retrieved August 30, 2006 from http://www.stpauls.co.uk

Plague. Retrieved August 25, 2006 from http://www.channel4.com/history/microsites/H/history/plague/story.html

Ross, David. The Great Fire of London. Retrieved August 30, 2006 from http://www.britainexpress.com/History/great_fire.htm

Simonson, Bruce. (2002). A Few Words About Ooids and Oolites. Retrieved August 31, 2006 from http://www.sculptureconservation.com/oolites.html

The Great Fire of London-1666. Retrieved August 25, 2006 from http://www.angliacampus.com/education/fire/london/history/greatfir.htm

The Monument. Retrieved August 31, 2006 from http://www.londontown.com/LondonInformation/Business/The_Monument/2c17/

Wikipedia. Isle of Portland. Retrieved August 28, 2006 from http://www.answers.com/topic/isle-of-portland

 

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