The Real Jurassic Park: Geological Explorations in Southwest England
University of Washington, Tacoma
TESC 417: Summer 2006
The Real Jurassic Park: Geology field course along the south coast of England (TESC 417)
Home

Back to Student Project

HOLY

ARCHITECTURE

An in depth look at the Cathedrals and Churches of Southwest England

 

Lisa Green

 

 

There are many places around the world to find Cathedrals and Churches because religion is a world wide topic.  There are also many places around the world that have Churches and Cathedrals dating back hundreds of years with an incredibly rich history to them and many of the churches that fall under those categories are within England.  Researching a world wide area of churches may very well be interesting, however, the final result will also be very broad.  Taking a more in depth look at the architecture of Churches and Cathedrals of a specific area can allow room for a much more unique experience.  There are multiple areas that can be focused on in greater detail such as the time the architecture took place and why, the building materials used and where it came from, why certain materials were used, and why and how these buildings came to be the final product that stands today.  Southwest England is a unique area to look at Cathedrals, Churches, architecture, and the stone that was used to comprise all of these things into one because there is a history much different than anywhere else in the world by way of geology and civilization.   

With all of the history that has been accrued in England it is important to look at the architecture with perspective of time.  There are three different architectural styles that are important in studying the Churches, Cathedrals, and Abbeys that are of great importance to Southwest England; Roman, Norman, and Gothic. Although these three architectural styles can be described with distinct characteristics, it is necessary to know that there are overlapping qualities between them.  Large transitional periods show us that Master Masons all over the country learned from one style and used that to improve upon another style.  The early years of England’s history belongs to the Romans who had brought many of their engineering abilities with them.  Most importantly, they brought the Roman Arch which they used in such important structures as the Coliseum and the great Roman Aqueducts.   Time moved forward and the Norman invasion had a dramatic effect on England.  Many of the previously standing buildings were destroyed and a new England needed to be built up.  The Norman era of architecture began in the year 1066 and is considered to have ended in 1160 while moving into a transitional period for the next century.  The Normans used many of the same ideas that the Romans had instilled but also created a unique style that is very clear in observation.  The transitional period brought new ideas that developed into the Gothic Style which is present in many of the large Cathedrals and Abbeys that are still standing today.  This style came around the year 1200.  The Norman style was still being used in the Parish Churches for the next hundred years or so but would eventually take on a more Gothic oriented style.  While looking closely at each individual building, the distinct characteristic of each style shows itself. 

Isometric view of a typical archRound Arch         http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arch

 

            Norman architecture has a way of showing a heavy and very grand appearance.  The tons of stone used, needed a support system in the larger cathedral-like buildings.   The intent of the Cathedrals and Abbeys was to build as tall as possible to reach into the heavens.  With this in mind, there were structural problems presented and the weight of the extensive buildings was supported by enormous arches and columns throughout the building.  There are two types of arch that distinguish between the Norman and the Gothic style.  The arch used in the Norman period is called a Round Arch which is the same idea as the Roman arch.  The arch allows the pressure from the weight to be distributed into evenly and to prevent cracking and collapse of the structure.  In Norman Architecture, the Round Arch is seen as the main structure of the building and is supported by enormous round pillars which extend to the floor.  As the pillars reach from the ground to support the arches above, they are connected by a very important piece of the puzzle, the capital.  This is a large stone shape that sits atop the pillar and from a narrow base widens at the top in different directions that will cushion the weight of the arch and the upper building.  These are the three major components of Norman architecture but there is one more distinguishing feature that tells the observer that they are looking at the work of the Normans.  The carvings in the arches, capitals, and pillars are unique to the Norman style.  They are carved with an axe which makes them less intricate than that of other styles but still portrays beautiful carving work.             From an exterior perspective,  the large rectangular tower is the major indication that a building has been influenced by Norman architecture.  In larger Cathedrals, they help to create a grand and large masterpiece while in smaller Parish Churches, they have a practical importance of holding the Church Bells. 

As Norman architecture had been used for many years and as a period of change took place, style took a turn toward Gothic.  A slow movement took place but the first thing that made a profound difference was the architecture of the roofs.  The Normans can claim use of the Round Arch but as Gothic style came into play, so did the Pointed Arch.  This was a great improvement for the architecture but also gave a different look to the ways in which Cathedrals were built.  The smaller Parish church used less of this style due to their much smaller size but it is present in many Cathedrals and Abbeys. Many wooden Norman ceilings were rebuilt and used these methods.  The ceiling of the building is divided into vaults and is then divided into multiple trapezoidal shaped stones called the voussoirs.  This vault has cross ribs running from the pillars upwards and across each section of the ceiling which hold it in place.  The Pillars are also much different than previously seen. Rather than one large thick pillar, Gothic pillars are much slimmer and are composed of many smaller shafts. The shafts of these pillars are often made of Purbeck Marble (Purbeck Sandstone) which can give away the Gothic nature of the architecture.  The vaults and the slim pillars give a much cleaner and lighter look rather than a heavy and dark look with thick stone as in the Norman style did. 

A quadripartite gothic vault, like a simple groin vault, can be thought of as the intersection of two barrel vaults.Ribbed Vault                   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vault

 

The other important piece of Gothic art is the intricacies by which the style had been finely shaped and detailed.  There are three types of detail within the Gothic style; Early English, Perpendicular, and Decorative.  Early English shows a very basic and plain style that did not include much tracery.  Opposite of the Early English, the Decorative style flaunts carvings within the exterior and interior and elaborate trefoils and quatrefoils became and elegant design that took over.  Lastly, the Perpendicular style shows many vertical and horizontal lines that are very clean throughout the window which create a crisp elongated look.  While looking at a Cathedral or Abbey, all three of these styles are often seen and the viewer can pinpoint the parts of the building that belong to each architectural time period.  These three styles can also help to pinpoint if a Parish Church is of a Norman or Gothic style or even if a church has been rebuilt with one style or another. 

The Norman and Gothic styles of Architecture were developed and molded to fit the materials that were available to build from.  Using stone was the most durable and effective way to build any sort of large structures.  The stones that were used in the raising of these Cathedrals, Abbeys, and Parish Churches were of great importance to England and certain types of stone were much more significant than others in terms of building.  England is very geologically based and there are many rock beds and types of rocks to choose and quarry from for building purposes.  The buildings being focused on later on are of Southwest England and the stones most relevant to those buildings are of the same area. 

The most important building stone is the Portland Limestone. It has been called Britain’s finest Limestone. (Maude, T. Guided by a Stone Mason p.97)  This stone is sought after for building because of characteristics that it exhibits. The Portland Stone has been used in many buildings throughout England and is most famously known along with Sir Christopher Wren and the rebuilding of most of London after the Great Fire of London in 1666.  Limestone is a very hard stone in comparison to others.  It is formed from calcium carbonate which bonds together very easily and strongly.  In more simple terms, Calcium Carbonate is the bonding of materials such as shellfish which is predominantly what formed this stone.  Looking closely with a hand lens an observer can easily identify shells and small pieces that have bonded together.  The Portland Limestone has three specific beds that are quarried and for different reasons.  The Whitebed and Base beds are much more homogeneous in their consistency and have been made up of much smaller calcium carbonate materials than that of the third bed. These two beds are so compact and well bonded that carving and shaping this stone for architectural purposes is much easier.  The Roach bed is made up of larger matter and fossil fragments that are easily visible to the eye and much less desired as a building material than the other two beds.  This stone is still quarried but is used for different purposes such as the Cobb that was built in the city of Lyme-Regis in Dorset.

Someone who has not been educated in geology might wonder why certain beds have different consistencies if they are all a part of the same stone.  The Portland Limestone is a very large rock bed that was laid down during the Jurassic Period (200 million years ago to 146 million years ago) and within that one large bed named Portland, there are more finely determined layers that have all been set down at different periods within the Jurassic.  Different environmental conditions cause the beds to be laid down causing unique compositions of stone.  Overall, the Portland bed was laid down at a point in time where the environment was shallow, tropical, and marine.  Therefore there were many shelled animals that had died, fallen to the bed of the ocean and over millions of years, the build up caused the bonding of those shells into layers of Portland Stone.  The Whitebed and Base layers were laid down at different times during the Jurassic and are made up of much smaller calcium bits called Oolites. This caused the beds to be bonded more finely creating a much more pure stone. 

Another important limestone from the Southwest England is the Purbeck Limestone.  The Purbeck rock bed handed down its name to the Isle of Purbeck, a large area of the county of Dorset.  This layer belongs to the late Jurassic and early Cretaceous period.  The environment of the earth was a very lagoonal and coastal type that was very warm, allowing calcium bits from marine life to conglomerate and build a strong layer of limestone in the same way that the Portland Limestone was set down.   This stone is also very tight and compact due to the tiny calcium components that bonded to form it. The Oolites making up the mass of the Purbeck Limestone were very small and created a very dense stone.  Due to this compactness, the Purbeck is another great stone to use as a building material.  Many masons found that if polished, the Purbeck began to shine into a black marble-like finish.  This proved to be very popular in the decorative branch of architecture.  In the thirteenth century Purbeck Marble could be found in almost every church that had been built.  It was used primarily for large decorative slabs, large pillars, and detailed carvings.  Although used for much more of an aesthetic purpose than the Portland, it is none the less, very important to how buildings were shaped. 

Beer Limestone is one that is not seen on the Coastline as with the Portland and the Purbeck.  It is found close to the coastline in quarry caves approximately a mile inland from the town of Beer and its coast.  At the time that it was set down, it was on a sea bed nearly 120 million years ago.  This puts the gives the Beer Stone a birth during the Cretaceous period.  It is already known that Limestone is primarily built from fossils and calcium carbonate materials.  It is also known that limestone is in many cases very compact particularly when used for construction purposes.  Besides being slightly more grainy than the others, what is the major difference between the Beer Stone and the other limestones that have already been discussed?  The distinctive characteristic of Beer Stone is the creamy yellowish colors that it exudes.  The stone acquired this color during the deposition period as calcium carbonates as well as refined clay and sand came together to create an extraordinary color.  This color made the Beer Stone highly sought after in order to produce buildings that looked very light and clean.  The Beer caves have been actively quarried since the time of the Romans until just a century ago which goes to prove the popularity of the stone. 

Quarrying stone is just the first step to working with it as a building material.  There are many skills and talents required to use the stone to its highest potential.  Within these skills is a hierarchy of Masons who have been trained at different levels to use, create, and to work with the stone in a different way than anyone one other type of mason can.  The head of all other stone masons is called the Master Mason.  This one man is often in charge of more than just managing the other masons around him.  He has many of the most important jobs to carry out which would not be the case in today’s world of architecture.  “The Master Mason was architect, quantity surveyor, civil engineer, and artist, all rolled into one.” (Maude, T. Guided by a Stone Mason, p.78)  As they traveled and built, their skill grew stronger as did their reputations which Bishops had kept account of in order to hire the right individual for the job. Opposite of the Master Mason were the apprentices who sat at the bottom of the totem pole.  They spent seven years learning under another to become fully certified. Beginning with simple tasks, they were taught such skills as shaping the stone into perfect pieces that would fit into the larger puzzle of the building.  They slowly worked their way into laying slabs and eventually were well trained enough to become decorative carvers.   After each apprenticeship was completed, each man had the option to become a journeyman earning daily wages as a fixer who continues to lay large stones of the building or a banker mason who carves artistic pieces with a mallet and chisel.  Despite some of these jobs being held at higher ranks than the others, all of these jobs are extremely important to the final product. 

There are many different parts to building a Cathedral, Abbey or Church and laying stone and carving decorative pieces are only one part that determining the aesthetic part of the building.  There are also very different ways that these three types of buildings are planned and constructed.  Cathedrals and Abbeys are typically very large buildings where as the Parish Church is a small version which is constructed for worship purposes.  A Cathedral is a building which houses a Bishop and an Abbey is one that houses a monastic community.  The two are built very similarly.  There is a blueprint that typically looks like a cross with the top of the cross always at the East.  Construction always begins with the most Holy part of the building being built for the Bishop or Monks to live and to Worship in.  The Nave is usually built for Pilgrims who have come to pay homage to Patron Saints.  As a separation barrier between the common visiting area in the West and the Holy East End, there is an area called the choir. The West End is always very large as it is prepared for many visitors and as more and more space was needed, the north and south transepts were soon built.  These two wings were added onto the sides of the building and seemingly cross over where the choir is.  The height of the building is also very important because it is intended to reach as high into the heavens as possible.  Many levels of arches are needed to stabilize the enormous structure.  There are two important levels above the lower part of the building.  The Triforium Gallery is like a second story but is only a wall that consists of another group of arches and windows of a smaller scale.  The Highest level is yet another level of wall and windows called the Clerestory that are even smaller.  As the walls grow taller, each of these sections is built farther inward increasing the stability of the large walls and supporting the very high ceiling arches. 

In the construction of each individual building, the method of building the walls varies and must be approached very differently.  There is a great contrast in the way the much smaller Parish Church is built.  As a much smaller building, there is a different style that is emphasized as it works better for the architecture.  It is built with the same shape in mind which allows for the traditional Eastern Holy to be separated by a small choir from the Western end which holds the Parishioners as they worship.  There are not always transepts that cross the nave because extra space is not always needed.  For small Parishes, a single hall is sufficient.  Typically, a large tower is usually found on each small Church.  This holds the church bells.  They are built very tall so that the bells can be hung higher and therefore be heard from farther distances.  Another major difference comes with the way that the ceiling is constructed.  As most community churches were built with the Norman influence in mind, there were many round arches which were built to uphold the wooden ceilings rather than large stone arches.  Having no large vaults in the ceiling also allowed for a different type of roof design in the smaller churches of a much more practical framework.  Looking at many of the small Church buildings in Devon and Dorset, nearly every church had a roof with a parapet.  This was on one hand decorative but also eliminated rain from pouring down the outer walls of the building.  Gargoyles are frequently found as well and they serve the same decorative purpose which holds a back seat to the more practical spout they contain for rain water to run off of. 

            As stated earlier, nearly every church seen in Devon and Dorset had this type of architecture.   St. Michael the Archangel in Lyme Regis was built with a blueprint that included the parapet roof, the layout of a cross, and a wooden ceiling, just as was mentioned previously.  Aside from these common traits, it has its own unique characteristics.  There is a large front tower which stands directly above the porch and entrance way.  This is very characteristic of the Norman style.  The windows also tell the observer that there is some Gothic influence because there are perpendicular lines within as well as decorative trefoil-like pieces that line the top of the windows. Evidence inside shows more Norman influence with pillars lining the porch as well as round arches that line the length of the nave.  The Gothic style is still not so far out of reach as there are many windows that resemble Gothic design as well as multi-shaft pillars that are bracing parts of the ceiling.  The key to understanding this church and many more is that there were frequent periods of destruction and while some parts of the church remained intact, other parts needed to be rebuilt completely.  This church in particular needed much restoration because it was made of a local, Blue Lias Stone, which is not as durable as other such limestones.  Due to the clay forms around this bed, it is a much weaker form of the limestone. To give an example as to the durability of this stone, the cliffs in and around Lyme-Regis and neighboring Charmouth have been eroding and falling into the sea at very rapid rates.  It is documented that St Michael’s Church once sat nearly a mile away from the sea and the land in between the two has quickly shrunk to approximately a quarter of a mile. 

            Another church in Dorset County also sits atop cliffs but the ground their remains firm.  Studland Bay, home of Old Harry Rocks and the White Chalk of the Cretaceous period is also home to St Nicholas’ Church.  Although this church is also of Norman style, this is one of the few churches that do not contain the parapet that was mentioned before.  It is however marked by the same layout with a cross shape on a much smaller scale.  This is a very small church but a large bell tower still graces the building and from each end extends the Nave and the East Altar.  Norman styles are still very much present and easy to pick out in other details aside from the tower.  All around the church there are very small windows that do not allow much light. (These windows were made small because masons did not yet have to know how to support large openings in the wall without major damage occurring.)  Upon entering the church, the walls, doorways, and ceiling are held together by the typical round arch.  This church has also made use of the local stone and although it has not been thoroughly documented, there is mention of a stone called the Purbeck Burr which can only be quarried at low tide, thirty yards out, in the city of Swanage just a few miles away. 

            Local Cathedrals are also very important examples of past architecture and the local stone that was used in the building processes.  Exeter Cathedral is one of the largest Cathedrals in England and possibly the most interesting on the Southern Coast of the country as well.  The stone used was that of the Beer Caves that have been quarried since the time of the Romans.  This gives the building a very light creamy color which many other Cathedrals and stones cannot compare to.  The main construction of this building began in the 12th century which was a transition period between Norman and Gothic styles.  The structure has two massive Norman towers at the North and South wings but fades into Gothic with the Decorative Gothic style overtaking the front of the Cathedral and within its windows.  Inside the building, shafts of Purbeck Marble extend upwards to support the capitals which further extend to support the Gothic vaulted ceilings that are stretch across the Nave. 

            St Paul’s Cathedral in London is also of great importance to the Portland Limestone.  As mentioned before, during the London Fire on 1666, many of the cities buildings were demolished.  The city was redesigned and buildings were reconstructed by Sir Christopher Wren.  His stone of choice was the Portland Limestone.  Included in the buildings that Wren had rebuilt was St Paul’s Cathedral.  As it was rebuilt toward the end of the Gothic period, it shows less resemblance toward what many other Cathedrals exhibit, however, there is still a distinct sense of the Perpendicular Gothic Style to be seen while observing its sleek lines. 

            Looking at all of the architecture, history, geology, and buildings individually can seem like a large topic with many angles and branches to learn about.  However, each topic relates to another and helps to make the puzzle fit.  Within the framework of this topic, each component is equally important to the whole.  It might be easy to say that without religion, there would be no purpose for the stone or the architecture but you can change the order of those words quite easily and still make a valid argument.  Without the architecture there would be no use for the stone, the masons, or the church at all or without the stone, this architecture would not be needed because churches would not be built in the same way.  Every part of this story needs the other part to develop into the beautiful attractions that have been standing for hundreds of years and Southwest England has each necessary piece unique to its geography to make these buildings happen. 

 

 

Maude, T. Guided by a Stone-Mason.  IB Taurus Publishers, London. 1997

 

Scammel, Rev F. The Church of St Nicholas.  Self Published, Studland, Dorset.

 

Murray, J. St Michael the Archangel.  Self Published, Lyme-Regis, Dorset. 1996

 

Henderson, I. The Winchester Diver. Henderson and Stirk Publications. 1996

 

Scott, J, Gray, G. Out of the Darkness. Self Published, Beer

 

Watson, P. Building the Medieval Cathedrals. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge. 1976

 

 

Home

Back to Student Project